ENGINE DIMENSIONS AND TOLERANCES
	
	Timing chain: 		R.H. Bank	.375 in. pitch x 104 links Simplex
				L.H. Bank	.375 in. pitch x 106 links Simplex
	Adjustable pallets		0.070 by 0.001 to 0. 1 14 in.
	Sparking plug . .		Champion N11 Y
	Valves
	
	Exhaust			Chrome plated stem, Stellite seat
	Major stem diameter		0.3100 to 0.3105 in.
	Minor stem diameter		0.290 to 0.294 in.
	Head diameter		1.28 in.
	Valve seat angle		45 degree  +/-   15'
	Inlet	
	Chrome plated stem
	Stem diameter		0.3107 to 0.3112 in.	
	Head diameter		1.44 in.
	Valve seat angle		45 degrees +/-  15'
	
	Flywheel: 
	total permissible run.out	0.004 in. at 4 in. radius T.I.R.

	Drive plate and starter ring (automatic transmission) 
	total permissible run-out (measured at starter ring face) = 0.040 in.  T.I.R.
	Cam followers
	Outside diameter	1.3125 to 1.3130 in.
	Inside diameter	1.183 to 1.188 in.
	Oil pump
	Maximum permissible clearances:
	Outer rotor and body		0.010 in.
	Outer and inner rotors		0.010 in.
	Rotor end to end face clearance	0.0005 in.
	Oil pressure relief valve spring
	Free length		1.525 in.
	Fitted length		0.925 in.
	Load at fitted length		15.4 lb.
	Rate			25.7 lb./in.
	Valve guides
	Inlet and exhaust: Length	1.94 in.
	Internal diameter		0.312 to 0.313
	Valve springs
	Solid length (max.)		1.013 in.
	Free length (approx.)		1.60 in.
	Rate fitted			296.5 lbf./in.
	No. of working coils		3.75
	Spiral			Left
	Crankshaft
	Journal diameter		2.1260 to 2.1265 in.
	Fillet (radius)		0.110 to 0.120in.
				0.070 to 0.080 in.
	Crankpins
	Diameter			1.7500 to 1.7505 in.
	Fillet (radius)		0.100 to 0.120 in.
	End-float			0.0003 to 0.011 in.
	Thrust bearing oversize available	+0.005 in.
	Connecting rods
	Connecting rod end.float	0.015 to 0.024 in.
	Maximum connecting rod bend	0.0015 in.
	Maximum connecting rod twist (measured in length
	of gudgeon pin)		0.0045 in.
	Camshaft
	Diameter of journals . .                                    1.1230 to 1.1235 in.
	Valve seat inserts
	Inlet:
		Outside diameter	1.5235 to 1.5245 in.
		Height		0.258 to 0.260 in.
		
		Bore out cylinder head:
		Diameter					1.519 to 1.520 in.
		Depth (measured from centre of camshaft bearing)   	4.863 to 4.867 in.
	Exhaust:
		Outside diameter	1.3335 to 1.3345 in.
		Height		0.258 to 0.260 in.
		Bore of cylinder head:
		Diameter					1.329 to 1.350 in.
		Depth (measured from centre of camshaft bearing) 	4.863 to 4.86 in.



	Cylinder liner
	Length		4.750 in.
	Outside diameter	3.5186 to 3.5196 in.
	Inside diameter	3.366 to 3.371 in.
	Idler shaft
	Bearing diameter	1.4560 to 1.4565 in.
	Bearing.water pump shaft
	Length . .		0.50 in.
	Outside diameter	0.6562 in.
	Inside diameter	0.562 in.
	Bearing split bush   ...
	Piston rings
	Top compression: Height	0.0777 to 0.0787 in.
	Gap			0.013 to 0.018 in.
	2nd coi.npression: Height	0. 1171 to 0. 1181 in.
	Gap			0.010 to 0.015 in.
	Oil control: Height		THREE PART RING
	Gap			0.015 to 0.055 in. ceiitre to butt
	Ring grooves
	Width: Compression ring (top)		0.0812 to 0.0802 in.
	Compression ring (2nd)		0.1196 to 0.1206 in.
	Oil control ring			0.157 to 0.158 in.
	Gudgeon pin
	Length . .				2.995 to 3.000 in.
	Piston			Dia. Top Land		Cylinder Bore
				3.3630 to 3.3650 in.		3.3853 to 3.3864 in.
				Piston skirt to be graded at bottom of skirt only
	Grade				F			G
	Bore			3.3853 to 3.3858 in.		3.3859 to 3.3864 in.
	Skirt diameter		3.3828 to 3.3833 in.		3.3834 to 3.3839 in.
			
 
 
 
 
 
 

ENGINE - Remove and refit
NOTE: The vehicle must be positioned under a hoist and, preferably, over a pit or ramp.
Alternatively, high stands will be required.
Remove
1.	Remove the bonnet (three bolts each side plus stay).
2.	Isolate the battery.
3.	Drain coolant (tap on radiator plus two on cylinder block).
4.	Disconnect top hose from radiator and the bottom hose from radiator, water pump, 
	and bypass pipe at rubber to metal pipe connection.
5.	Remove bottom hose assembly.>
6.	Remove radiator (two bolts top, two nuts bottom) complete with overflow bottle.

NOTE:	Lower fan guard will come away with radiator nuts.

7.	Remove centre bolt from fan pulley.
8.	Lift off fan and Torquatrol unit.
9.	Disconnect pipes from steering rack and pump, and allow system to drain.  
	Plug all ports in rack and pump to prevent the ingress of dirt.
10.	Remove earth strap from alternator mounting bracket.
11.	Disconnect cables from:
		Alternator
		Windscreen washer bottle
		Water temperature transmitters (each head)
		Oil pressure transmitter
		Coil
		Ballast resistor
		Starter motor
		Gearbox cables, from junction at L.H. side of bulkhead.

12.	Disconnect:
		Fuel pipe from filter
		Accelerator and choke cables from carburettor
		Two heater hoses at bulkhead
		Servo hose from inlet manifold.
13.	Remove windscreen washer bottle.
14.	Raise the vehicle front by approx. 18 inches.


NOTE:	If the vehicle is not on a ramp, situate stands below the frame outriggers 
		to the rear of the front wheels.

15.	Drain engine and gearbox oils. 
	(On automatic transmission remove dipstick tube to effect draining.)
16.	Remove oil filter.
17.	Remove front exhaust pipes and silencers.
18.	On automatic transmission vehicle:
	(a)	Disconnect gear control linkage (one clip).
	(b)	Remove oil cooler pipes at box and cooler plus clip to frame.
19.	Disconnect speedo cable (collect spacer).
20.	Lift one rear wheel on jack.
21.	Remove propeller shaft, plug rear of gearbox, lower wheel.
22.	Place trolley jack below gearbox mounting cross.member, take weight.
23.	Attach lifting sling to front lifting eyes on engine.
24.	Remove bolts front front engine mountings (chassis connections).
25.	Remove bolts securing gearbox mounting cross.member to frame 
	(collect nylon spacers and large plain washers).
26.	Raise engine at front to lift sump clear of cross.member.
27.	Ease the engine forward whilst lowering the gearbox.
28.	Carefully raise the engine and lower gearbox until the unit is almost
	vertically suspended from front lifting brackets.
29.	Lift unit clear of vehicle.



Refit
1.	Attach sling and hoist to front lifting brackets.
2.	Lift unit suspended almost vertically from front lifting brackets.
3.	Lower unit into engine compartment.
4.	Place trolley jack below gearbox mounting cross.member.
5.	Lower engine whilst raising and moving trolley jack back with gearbox until
	unit is situated in position for fitting mounting bolts.
6.	Fit and tighten front engine mounting bolts and nuts.
7.	Fit and tighten rear engine mounting nuts, nylon spacers and large plain washers 
	(mountings consist of four rubber grommets, steel sleeves, nylon spacers, bolts, 
	large plain washers, and nuts).
8.	Raise one rear wheel.
9.	Fit propeller shaft and lower wheel.
10.	Fit speedometer cable and spacer.
11.	Connect gear control linkage and oil cooler pipes(automatic transmission).
12.	Fit oil filter.
13.	Fit front exhaust pipes and silencers.  Lower vehicle if on stands.
14.	Fit windscreen washer bottle.
15. 	Connect:
		Servo hose
		Heater hoses
		Accelerator and choke cables
		Fuel supply pipe.
16.	Connect cables to:
		Gearbox junction at L.H. side of bulkhead
		Starter motor
		Ballast resistor
		Coil
		Oil pressure transmitter
		Water temperature transmitters
		Windscreen washer bottle
		Alternator.
17.	Fit earth strap to alternator bracket.
18.	Connect steering pipes.
19.	Fit fan and Torquatrol unit.
20.	Fit and tighten fan pulley centre.bolt.
21.	Fit radiator and lower fan guard.
22.	Fit and tighten coolant hoses.
23.	Fit bonnet.
24.	Fill: 
		Engine
		Gearbox
		Power steering system
		Radiator.
25.	Connect battery.
 
 
 
 
 

SUMP-Remove and refit
Operation performed with engine in situ.
Remove
1.	Drain oil.
2.	Remove L.H. front exhaust pipe.
3.	Disconnect anti.roll bar links from anti.roll bar.
4.	Jack up front of vehicle, place stands below the outriggers to the rear 
	of the front wheels.
5.	Disconnect radius rods from lower wishbones.
6.	Disconnect lower wishbones from cross.member, push aside.
7.	Disconnect steering rack from cross.member and allow it to drop slightly.
8.	Unclip brake pipe from nylon clips on cross.member.
9. 	Remove cross.member (four bolts on each side, plates on top of chassis members).
10.	Remove all sump bolts and two nuts, lower sump.
Refit
1.	Clean gasket faces; fit new gasket.
2.	Lift sump into position and secure with bolts and nuts.
3.	Fit cross.member (fit plates behind bolt heads, the two chambered plates go 
	inboard to accommodate chassis radii.  Brake pipe brackets attach to the rear 
	outer bolts).
4.	Attach brake pipe to nylon clips on cross.member.
5.	Position lower wishbone in cross.member hanger brackets.
6.	Couple radius rods to lower wishbones; do not tighten.
7.	Fit bolts through from rear of lower wishbone to cross.member; fit nuts; 
	do not tighten.
8.	Lower vehicle.
9.	Fit steering rack to cross.member.
10.	Tighten nuts and bolts on radius rods, lower wishbones and steering rack.
11.	Fit anti.roll bar links.
12.	Fit exhaust pipe.
13.	Fill engine with correct grade of oil.

 
 
 
 
 

ENGINE ASSEMBLY-STRIP AND REBUILD
Special tools 4235A; S4235A/6; 38U3; S350; S349; S352.

1. 	Remove engine.
2.	Remove ancillary equipment.
3.	Remove cam covers.
4.	Bend back tabs on camshaft drive gear bolts, turn the engine to obtain access 
	to all bolts.
5.	Screw one camshaft bearing nut on each of the camshaft drive gear spigots through
	support brackets..
6.	Remove bolts and lockplates securing drive gears to camshaft.
7.	Remove the twelve bolts attaching the inlet manifold to the cylinder heads.
8.	Remove inlet manifold.
9.	On R.H. bank.  Remove cylinder head bolts, nuts and washers and, using tool S350,
	remove the studs. (Two bolts secure cylinder head to front cover).
10.	Lift off cylinder head and gasket.
11.	Perform operation 9 and 10 on L.H. bank.
12.	Remove oil pump and hexagonal drive shaft.
13.	Remove oil pressure take.off
14.	Remove oil filter.
15.	Remove coolant drain taps.
16.	Remove water pump cover bolts (three) and lift off cover.
17.	Remove centre bolt from water pump impeller and use tool S4235A/6 to remove pump.
18.	Remove flywheel securing bolts.
19.	Remove flywheel. (Use, if necessary, a flat plate across the flywheel housing with
	two holes drilled coincident with two opposite (clutch securing) holes in the 
	flywheel.  Use two long bolts as pullers to withdraw the flywheel).
20.	Remove front cover bolts and lift off cover.
21.	Remove R.H. chain tensioner, spacer and keep plate.
22.	Remove R.H. chain guides, support bracket, gear and chain.
23.	Remove L.H. chain tensioner and keep plate.
24.	Remove L.H. chain guides, support bracket, gear and chain.
25.	Remove jackshaft keep plate using Allen key to remove screws.
26.	Lift out jackshaft.
27.	Lift engine on to flywheel cover.
28.	Remove sump and gasket.                                                                                         
29.	Remove oil strainer.
30.	Remove caps from Nos.  1 and 2 connecting rods.
31.	Push out piston and connecting rod assemblies, replace caps on connecting rods.
32.	Repeat operations 30 and 31 on all assemblies.
33.	Lift engine to crankshaft uppermost position.
34.	Remove rear oil seal housing.
35.	Remove main bearing caps and thrust washers from centre bearing.
36.	Remove crankshaft.
Keep bearings and thrust washers in correct order.
REBUILD
37.	Ensure that all oil. and water ways are clear and that all components and sub-assemblies are clean and dimensionally correct to the data given.

CAUTION: Apply oil to all internal moving parts and bearing surfaces as the engine is built.
Tighten all nuts and bolts in accordance with the torque figures given.
All sub-assemblies are dealt with under their respective headings.

38.	Insert main line bearings to block and caps, noting that Nos. 1, 3 and 5 are wider bearings than 2 and 4. No. 5 bearing is not numbered.
39.	Fit crankshaft.
40.	Fit thrust washers to No. 3 bearing, bi-metal face to crank.
41	Fit main bearing caps with numbers on starter motor side of engine. (Fig. 12.02)
42.	Fit bolts and tighten, continually checking for free rotation of crankshaft.
43.	Check crankshaft end float (0.003 to 0.011 in.; 0.08 to 0.28 mm.). (Fig. 12.03)
44.	Using the ring compression tool 38U3, fit the connecting rod piston assemblies, taking care to avoid damage to the crankshaft, on the even bank i.e. rear of crankshaft journal. (Fig. 12.04)
45.	Fit caps and tighten nuts to specified torque.
46.	Perform operations 44 and 45 on odd bank.
47.	Check clearance between big.end bearings (0.015 to 0.024 in.; 0.38 to 0.6 mm.) and 
	free rotation of crankshaft. (Fig. 12.05)
48.	Fit rear oil seal housing gasket.
49.	Fit rear oil seal housing, locating on the two dowels and using the two longest 
	bolts at the sump end. (Fig. 12.06)
50.	Fit gasket for oil strainer.
51.	Fit oil strainer and tighten the two securing bolts. (12.07)
52.	Fit gasket and sump.
53.	Fit 14 sump bolts and 2 nuts; do not tighten.
54.	Place engine on stand correct way up.
55.	Fit flywheel cover locating on the two dowels 10 bolts and washers.
56.	Fit and tighten flywheel housing bolts.  Check for high spots on face.
57.	Fit flywheel, locating on dowel.
58.	Fit and tighten flywheel bolts.
59.	Check flywheel run-out, not to exceed 0.1 mm.  T.I.R. at 10 cm. radius 
	(0.004 in.  T.I.R. at 4 in.).
60.	Turn flywheel until No. 2 cylinder (front L.H. bank) is at T.D.C. mark.
61.	Check that line on flywheel corresponds with line on flywheel housing. (Fig. 12.08)
62.	Fit jackshaft and gear, threading the shaft carefully through the cylinder block
	to avoid damaging the bearing surfaces.
63.	Fit jackshaft keeper plate and secure with two countersunk hexagon recessed screws.
	(Fig. 12.09)
64.	Check jackshaft gear for run.out which may be caused by the dowel 'picking up'; 
	run.out will cause excess noise and chain wear.
65.	Fit inner crankshaft gear, using shims to align the gear to the jackshaft gear. 
	(Figs. 12.10 and 12.11)
66. 	When gear alignment is correct, remove the gear, fit Woodruff keys to crankshaft
	and fit inner and outer crankshaft gears.
67.	Fit the water pump, ensuring that the spigot bearing is in good condition and that
	the pump gear engages and seats the pump correctly.
68.	Check water pump housing clearances; fit requisite gaskets and secure \vith the 
	three bolts. (See 'Cooling System')
69.	Fit inner chain tensioner and restrictor plate, using a cardboard spacer to prevent 
	actuation of ratchet mechanism. (See Sub.assemblies)
70.	Align jackshaft gear with line slightly tilted down to L.H. bank and dowel to 
	L.H. bank No. 2 cylinder T.D.C.
71.	Fit L.H. bank chain guides, chain (longer chain), camshaft drive gear and support 
	bracket.  Do not tighten bolts on the curved tensioner or support bracket at this 
	stage.  Use spigot and camshaft bearing nut to hold gear to support bracket. 
	(Fig. 12.12)
72.	Fit one stud at either end of cylinder block to locate cylinder head and gasket.

NOTE:	Cylinder head studs should be fitted to the full depth of threads, finger tight only.

73.	Fit cylinder head gasket.
74.	Ensure that the camshaft is aligned correctly, i.e. line on camshaft flange in line
	with groove in No. I camshaft bearing. (Fig. 12.13)
75.	Fit cylinder head. (Fig. 12.14)

CAUTION: On no account may the crankshaft or camshaft be turned with the head fitted and the camshaft 
	gear not connected to the camshaft.  If this is done, the valves will be damaged bv the pistons.

76.	Fit remaining cylinder head studs, washers and nuts.
77.	Fit cylinder head bolts and washers.
78.	Tighten cylinder head nuts, then bolts, to required torque in the sequence shown. 
	(Fig. 12.15)

CAUTION: It is imperative that this tightening sequence is followed; failure to do so will distort the cylinder head.

79.	Align camshaft gear to camshaft by disconnecting gear from support bracket and 
	moving it round, one tooth at a time within the chain, until the bolt holes are 
	aligned.  Do not move jackshaft gear.
80.	Fit top camshaft bolt and lockplate, carefully position lockplate to line up both 
	holes then tighten top bolt and tab over.
81.	Centralize boss on the camshaft spigot within the liole in the support bracket 
	(this must run freely within bracket without touching); tighten lower bolt in 
	support bracket.
82.	Use a 1 mm. (0.040 in.) feeler between the shoe and body of the chain tensioner 
	to attain correct clearance, apply pressure to the curved chain guide and tighten 
	bolts. (Fig. 12.16)
83.	Remove feeler gauge and check that chain is located squarely on pads of the chain 
	guides.
84.	Fit outer chain tensioner, keeper and spacer, using a cardboard spacer to prevent 
	actuation of ratchet mechanism.
85.	Fit R.H. bank chain, camshaft gear, chain guides and support bracket together with 
	bolt spacers.  Do not tighten bolts on curved guide or support bracket at this stage.
	(Fig. 12.17)
86.	Ensure mating gasket faces of inlet manifold and cylinder head are clean; apply a 
	smear of grease and attach gaskets.
87.	Fit inlet manifold to L.H. head fitting longer (centre) bolts first then shorter 
	(outer) bolts, start all bolts before tightening.
88.	Perform operations 72 to 77 to R.H. bank. (Figs. 12.18 and 12.19)
89.	Fit gasket between R.H. cylinder head and inlet manifold.
90.	Fit and tighten bolts securing cylinder head to inlet manifold, ensuring that the 
	gaskets remain in position.
91.	Perform operations 78 to 83 to R.H. bank.
92.	Fit oil thrower to crankshaft, dished face out.
93.	Fit three timing cover gaskets, with smear of grease to retain in position, at the 
	front of cylinder block.
94.	Fit timing cover, locating on the two dowels. (Fig. 12.20)

CAUTION: To prevent damaging the sump or head gaskets care must be taken fitting the front cover.  
It is good practice, using strips of shim steel, to slot the cover between the gaskets.  (See Fig. 12.21)

95.	Fit timing cover bolts and alternator mounting bracket start the cylinder head to 
	front cover bolts first then the sump to cover bolts. 
	(See illustration for bolt installation)
96.	Fit crank.pulley timing plate.
97.	Fit crank.pulley and Torquatrol unit. (Fig. 12.22)
98.	Fit cam covers and gaskets.
99.	Fit oil pump and hexagon drive shaft. (Fig. 12.23)
100. 	Fit oil transfer housing. (Fig. 12.24)
101. 	Fit oil filter. (Fig. 12.25)
102. 	Fit coolant drain taps.
103. 	Fit ancillary equipment.
104. 	Fit engine.

 
 
 



CYLINDER HEADS--OVERHAUL
Special tool S352.
1.	Remove cylinder heads.
2.	Remove camshaft bearing nuts, slackening evenly until the camshaft is no longer 
	under valve spring tension.
3.	Remove camshaft bearing caps and shells.
4.	Remove camshaft and lower shells.
5.	Remove tappets and pallets.
6.	Using special tool S352, remove the valve cotters, collars, springs, valves, and 
	spring seats. (Fig. 12.26)

NOTE:	All components should be kept in sets and replaced in the positions from which they came unless new 
components are required.

7.	Remove exhaust manifold.
8.	Remove all carbon from combustion chamber, exhaust ports and cylinder head face, 
	using wire brushes and taking care to avoid scratching cylinder head face.
9.	Examine condition of valve seats, re.cutting or renewing as required.
10.	Examine condition of valve guides, renewing as required.
11.	Blow all traces of carbon dust from the head, using an air line.
12.	Inspect valve components for wear against data in 'Dimensions and Tolerances'. 
	Renew as necessary.
13.	Grind valves and remove all traces of paste before proceeding.
14.	Fit exhaust manifold.
15. 	Using tool S356, fit valves, spring seats, collars and cotters.

NOTE:	The valve springs are fitted with closer coils to head.

16.	Fit tappets and pallets assemble dry.
17.	Inspect camshaft and bearing shells renewing worn or scored components 
	(see 'Dimensions and Tolerances').
18.	Fit shells to cylinder head and bearing caps.
19.	Fit camshaft.

NOTE:	L.H. bank camshaft has annular groove on the periphery of the camshaft gear flange.

20.	Fit bearing caps, nuts and tighten, pulling down evenly to ensure satisfactory 
	settling of the shaft.
21.	Adjust valve clearances.
22.	Turn camshaft to the fitting position, i.e. line on shaft flange in line with groove
	in front bearing cap. (Fig. 12.13)

CAUTION:It is imperative that the camshaft is lined up as above before the head is fitted; failure to do so will
result in valve and/or piston damage.

 
 
 
 
 

VALVE CLEARANCE-CHECK AND ADJUST

NOTE:	This operation may be performed with the cylinder head on the engine or with the head on the bench.

1.	Remove air cleaner and air cleaners to carburettor elbows.
2.	Remove distributor covers and H.T. leads.
3.	Remove camshaft covers and half grommets in cylinder heads.
4.	Use feeler gauges to check the clearance between the head of the cam and each tappet.
	Note the clearance of each valve and its location. (Fig. 12.28)
NOTE: For a head on the bench, the hexagon forward to the rear camshaft bearing may be used to turn the camshaft.

CAUTION: On no account may the camshaft be turned when the cylinder head is on the engine and not connected, 
by drive chain, to the crankshaft.  Failure to observe this caution will result in damaged valves and/or pistons.
Where valve clearances are found to be within the following limit, omit operations 5 to 19. 
	Exhaust 0.016 to 0.018 in. 
	Inlet 0.008 to O.010 in.

5.	On one bank; bend back tabs on lockplate, slacken bolts securing camshaft gear to 
	camshaft.
6.	Use a camshaft bearing nut to secure camshaft spigot bolt to support plate.
7.	Turn the engine as required to remove the two bolts securing camshaft gear to 
	camshaft but do not remove last one until the line on the camshaft flange is in line
	with the groove in the front bearing cap, i.e. No. 2 cylinder T.D.C. firing.
8.	Remove camshaft bearing nuts, caps and lift off camshaft.
9.	Remove each tappet and pallet requiring alteration to clearance.  Keep in correct 
	numbered sequence. (Fig. 12.29)
10.	With a micrometer, measure and note the thickness of each pallet.
11.	Using the following as an example, select the appropriate pallet give the correct 
	valve clearance, e.g.

	(a)	Noted valve clearance (exhaust valve)	0.022 in.
		Required valve clearance		0.017±0.001 in.
		i.e. excess valve clearance		+0.005 in.
		Noted pallet thickness		0.090 in.
		Pallet required	0.095 in.
	(b)	Noted valve clearance (inlet valve)	0.006 in.
		Required valve clearance		0.009±0.001 in.
		i.e. insufficient valve clearance		-0.003 in.
		Noted pallet thickness		0.100 in.
		Pallet required	0.097 in.

12.	Having selected the correct pallets, fit pallets and tappets.
13.	Fit camshaft (line on camshaft flange aligned with groove on front bearing cap). 
	(Fig. 12.13)
14.	Fit bearing caps and nuts, tighten down evenly.
15.	Fit lockplates and bolts securing camshaft gear to camshaft.

CAUTION:Do not turn engine until camshaft and crankshaft are connected by drive chain.

16.	Re.check valve clearances; repeat operations 7 to 15 if necessary.
17.	Tighten camshaft gear to camshaft bolts, tab over.
18.	Remove nut securing camshaft gear spigot to support bracket.
19.	Repeat operations 5 to 18 on other bank.
20.	Fit cylinder head grommets.oil tappets and cams.
21.	Fit camshaft covers.ensure gaskets are correctly seated.
22.	Fit distributor cover and H.T. leads.
23.	Fit air cleaner and air cleaner to carburetter elbows.

 

 

 

 


CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.REMOVE AND REFIT
Remove
1.	Remove radiator.
2.	Remove central retaining bolt.
3.	Remove fan and Torquatrol unit.
4.	Slacken alternator, steering pump and air conditioning unit (where fitted) belt 
	adjustment bolts.
5.	Remove drive belts.
6. 	Withdraw pulley.
Refit
1. 	Ensure Woodruff keys are correctly positioned in crankshaft.
2.	Fit pulley, lining up keyway to keys.
3.	Fit drive belt to alternator, steering pump and air conditioning unit (where fitted).
4.	Adjust the drive belt tension.
5.	Fit fan and Torquatrol unit.
6.	Fit and tighten central bolt to 12.44 to 15.20 kg. m. (90 to 110 lb. ft.).
7. 	Fit radiator.

 
 
 
 

LUBRICATION SYSTEM
A conventional wet sump system with eccentric rotor type pump providing oil of approximately 
40 p.s.i. (2.8 kg./cm.,) at 1,000 r.p.m.
Oil flow (Fig. 12.30)
From the sump oil is drawn to the pump via a strainer.  Oil at pressure is then fed to 
the full-flow filter and on to the main oil gallery.   The main oil gallery distributes
the oil to all moving parts, to the hydraulic chain tensioners and, via an intermittent
feed from the front jackshaft bearing, to the camshafts. The fuel filter incorporates a
safety valve, which in the event of a blockage allows unfiltered oil to by-pass the 
filter. The oil pump incorporates a pressure relief valve which will open at approximately
50 p.s.i. (3.6 kg./cm.').
Oil pump
The oil pump is an eccentric rotor type externally mounted and driven by the jackshaft 
via the distributor drive gear and an interconnecting drive shaft.
To remove (Fig. 12.23)
Working below the vehicle.
1.	Drain engine oil.
2.	Remove four bolts securing pump to cylinder block.
3.	Remove pump.

NOTE:	The hexagon drive shaft may or may not come away with the pump.  
	If not, it may be removed with the aid of long.nosed pliers.
To refit
1.	Check cylinder block and pump faces.
2.	Fit 'O' ring to oil pump groove.
3.	Fit hexagonal drive shaft.
4.	Offer up pump, turn to engage hexagonal drive shaft with distributor.
5.	Fit and tighten the four securing bolts.
6.   Refill engine with correct grade of oil.
Oil pump inspection (Fig. 12.32a  12.32b 12.32c )
Correct oil pressure depends on the efficient operation of the pump.  Wear in any of the component parts reduces the efficiency and thus the oil pressure.
1. 	Remove the pump, dismantle, clean and dry the components.
2.	Examine the end faces for scoring and wear.  The pressure relief valve end face may
	be skimmed lightly to remove surface scratches; ensure that it is perfectly flat.
3.	Check the end.float of the rotors A Fig.  This must not exceed 0.004 in. (0.1 mm.).
4.	Check clearance between the rotors B Fig.  This must not exceed 0.010 in, (0.25 mm.).
5.	Check clearance between outer rotor and body C Fig. This must not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm.).
6.	Check the pump spindle bush for wear; renew if necessary. 
	Fit a new pump if the above tolerances are exceeded.
Oil filter-remove, change element-refit (Fig. 12.25)
Working below the vehicle.
1 .  	Drain the engine oil.
2.	Unscrew the centre bolt in the filter.
3.	Remove filter bowl complete with element, centre bolt and valve.
4.	Discard element and 'O' rings (one from cylinder block groove).
5. 	Clean components; renew any defective part.
6.	Fit new 'O' ring to cylinder block groove.
7.	Fit new element.
8.	Offer up filter and secure with centre bolt, ensuring that the filter bowl sits in 
	the cylinder block groove squarely on the 'O' ring seat.  Do not overtighten bolt.
	see torque figures.
9. Refill engine with correct grade of oil.
Oil Seals
The main crankcase oil seals are the front and rear crankshaft seals.  Both seals are lip seals fitted flush in their housings.
To renew rear seal
1.	Remove engine.
2.	Separate engine from gearbox.
3.	Remove clutch and flywheel.
4.	Remove the two centre rear bolts in sump.
5.	Remove six bolts securing seal housing to crankcase.
6.	Remove seal housing.
7.	Remove seal.
 
 



ENGINE SUB-ASSEMBLIES
Pistons and connecting.rods
1.	Check connecting.rods for bend and twist, using tool No. 336/3 in conjunction with
	jig. (Fig.12.35) Bend not to exceed 0.0015 in. (0.038 mm.) for length of gudgeon pin.
	Twist not to exceed 0.006 in. (0.15 mm.) for length of gudgeon pin.
2.	Pistons are graded to cylinder bores; grading letters are stamped on piston head and
	cylinder block (see 'Dimensions and Tolerances').
3.	The three piston rings are positioned as follows:
		Top:	parallel compression ring.
		Centre:	stepped, top face marked scraper ring.
		Bottom:	three.piece, two flat, one sprung.oil control ring.  Space the piston
					ring gaps evenly on non.thrust side of piston.
4.	Gudgeon pins are floating retained by circlips, thumb push fit in piston.
5.	Pistons are marked with a triangle to denote front.
6.	The connecting rods are chambered on the big.end on one side only; this side fits 
	adjacent to the crankshaft throws.  Thus the two big.ends are fitted to each journal
	with non-chamfered sides together.
7.	Assemble pistons to connecting rods thus:
	L.H. bank: chamfer on big.end opposite to front of piston.  
	R.H. bank: chamfer on big.end in line with front of piston.
Chain tensioners
Two hydraulically operated, self.adjusting chain tensioners are fitted, one for each 
chain.  The assembly comprises a rubber slipper, on which the chain runs, mounted on a 
hollow plunger.  A spring and ratchet cylinder are fitted in the bore of the plunger, 
locating the ratchet on a peg within the plunger bore.  This assembly is housed in a 
casting in which an oil hole is drilled linked to the engine pressure lubricating system.
When the engine is running, oil pressure plus internal spring pressure acts to force the
plungers from the body and apply pressure to the chain. The ratchet cylinder retracts 
only as far as the nearest slot and as the chain lengthens or the rubber slipper wears 
the effective length of the cylinder/plunger unit increases, thus maintaining chain 
tension.
Assembling the chain tensioners (Fig. 12.36)
Place spring (2) into cylinder (3) and fit both into bore of plunger (1).  
Insert a 1/8th in.  A.F. Allen key into rear of cylinder, press and turn in a clockwise 
direction until the cylinder is fully inserted and the assembly remains retracted (Fig. 12.37).
Fit assembly in bore of body.  To prevent actuation of the mechanism when fitting, cut a
horseshoe-shaped piece of cardboard and interpose between head of plunger and body casting;
keep in position until adjusting the chain tension.  Situated between the tensioner and 
the crankcase, left.hand bank or tensioner and distance piece right.hand bank, is a 
restrictor plate (5) which restricts the length of expansion and acts as a guide.
Valve guides
1.	Worn valve guides can be replaced using tool 6OA/A.
2.	Remove by pulling guide out to camshaft side of head. (Fig. 12.39)
3.	Fit by pulling guide towards combustion chamber. (Fig. 12.40)
4.	New valve guides must be reamed to 5/16th in after fitting. (Fig. 12.38)

 
 
 
 

DRIVE BELTS
To adjust the drive belt tension, proceed as follows:
Alternator belt
1.	Slacken the nut on the top rear bracket of the alternator.
2.	Slacken the bolt on the front adjusting bracket of the alternator.
3.	Ease the alternator away from the cylinder block, taking particular care not to apply
	pressure to the alternator centre.  The pressure must be applied to the front flange
	with a soft material, preferably wood.
4.	Tighten the bolt and check tension.  This should be 1/2 to 3/4 in. (12 to 18 mm.) at
	the mid-point between pulleys.
5.	When correct, tighten rear top bracket.
Steering pump drive belt                                                                                             
1.	Slacken the three bolts securing the pump mounting bracket to cylinder head.
2.	Lift the pump to provide 3/4 to 1 in. (18 to 25 mm.) total movement of the belt at the 
	mid-point between pulleys.
3. 	Do not apply excess pressure to the pump as this will damage the drive shaft bearings.
Air conditioning unit drive belt (where fitted)
1.	Slacken the nuts securing the jockey pulley to front cover.
2.	Lift the pulley to give i to I in. (18 to 25 mm.) total movement between jockey pulley
	and unit pulley.
3. 	Do not apply excess pressure to pulley as this will damage bearings in the air 
	condition	unit.
 
 
 
 
 

DISTRIBUTOR AND IGNITION TIMING
The distributor is mounted between banks at the rear of the inlet manifold and is driven by the jackshaft.
Servicing (Fig. 12.42)
Every 6,000 miles (10000 km.) remove cover and rotor.  Apply a few drops of engine oil to
felt pad (1) to lubricate cam spindle bearing.  Inject a few drops of engine oil through
centre aperture (2) to lubricate the centrifugal timing control.  Lightly grease the cam
(3) with Mobilgrease No. 1 or equivalent.  Wipe away any surplus lubricant and ensure the
contacts are oil-free.  If the contact surfaces are burned or pitted, clean with a fine
carborundum stone or emery-cloth followed by a petrol-moistened cloth.  If excessively 
worn or pitted, renew the contact set. Two sets of contact points are used to achieve a
dwell angle of satisfactory length on this eightcylinder distributor.  The contacts are
electrically connected in parallel.  The contact set adjacent to the vacuum unit operates
in advance of the second set and controls the start of the dwell period.  The second contact
set controls the end of the dwell period and thus the engine timing.

For each contact set in turn, adjust the contact gap as follows.  

Rotate the cam by turning the crankshaft by applying a wrench to the boss inboard of 
the pulleys until a moving contact heel is positioned on a cam peak.  

Slacken lock screw (5).  Position a 0.014 to 0.016 in. feeler gauge between the contacts.  
Move fixed contact (6) about moving contact pivot (7) to adjust gap.  
Tighten lock screw.  Check 0.014 to 0.016 in. gap has been maintained.  
Repeat the operation for the second contact set.
Ignition timing
An ignition timing plate is bolted to the front cover.  
When the zero on the plate is coincident with the groove cut in the belt pulley, No. 2 
cylinder is at T.D.C.
Remove distributor cap; check points gap.
Turn the engine, by means of a wrench on the boss inboard of the pulleys, until timing 
groove in drive belt pulley is 14' B.T.D.C. and the rotor arm is pointing towards No. 2
H.T. connection.

NOTE: Turn engine forward to attain this position to take up backlash in gears and chains.

Connect a test lamp circuit as shown on Fig. 12.44.
1.	Distributor fly.lead removed froi.n coil negative terminal.
2. 	Test lamp.12 volt.     3. Vehicle battery.

Slacken distributor bolts (tool S349) (Fig. 12.43) and turn distributor full anti-clockwise,
then clockwise until the timing lamp goes out.  It is then the points nearest the left.hand 
bank will have commenced to open.
Tighten the distributor clamp bolts, remove test lamp circuit and fit distributor cap.
Connect leads as shown on Fig. 12.45.
Firing order 1, 2, 7, 8, 4, 5, 6, 3.